How to use your inverter welder.
A beginner-friendly walkthrough for stick (MMA) welding with the Greenfield ProLite MMA200A — from setup to your first clean bead.
Set up for success.
Stick welding is the easiest way to start — cheap electrodes, no gas, and it works outdoors. This guide covers the basics with the MMA200A. Always read your manual and the safety guide first.

Wear your full PPE, work in a ventilated area clear of flammables, and keep everything dry. Read the Welding & Safety guide before your first arc.
Set up the machine
Place the welder on a stable, dry surface with airflow around it. Connect the earth (work) clamp to clean, bare metal on your workpiece — rust and paint stop a good circuit. Plug the electrode holder lead into the positive or negative terminal as your electrode requires (most general rods run DC electrode-positive).
Choose the right electrode
For general mild steel, a 6013 rod is the most forgiving starting point. Match the electrode diameter to the metal thickness — a 2.5mm rod suits thin 2–5mm steel; step up to 3.2mm for thicker sections. Keep electrodes dry; damp rods weld poorly.
Dial in the amperage
Set the current to suit the rod and thickness. Too low and the rod sticks; too high and it burns through. Use this as a starting point, then fine-tune on a scrap offcut:
Strike the arc
Lower your helmet. Strike like striking a match — scratch the rod across the metal and lift slightly to about 3mm. Too far and the arc dies; too close and the rod sticks (snap it free or release the holder). Hold a short, steady arc — you’ll hear a steady crackle like frying bacon when it’s right.
Run the bead
Tilt the electrode about 10–15° in the direction of travel and move at a steady pace, keeping the arc length constant. Watch the molten pool, not the arc — aim for a consistent, slightly overlapping ripple. When you finish, chip off the slag and wire-brush to inspect: a good weld is even, well-fused and free of holes.
Troubleshooting.
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